transmilenio: suba tv 91[c] & avenida cali [d]

Yesterday afternoon, Seth and I took the Transmilenio to Suba, the eleventh locality of Bogotá. Formerly a municipality, Suba was officially designated a locality of Colombia’s capital city in 1991. The area is known for its high indigenous populations and its natural features, including the Humedales Córdoba, Juan Amarillo, y La Conejera and the Parque Mirador de los Nevados.

We began our tour of the locality with a visit to the Viewpoint of los Nevados, near Transmilenio stop Suba Tv 91 on the C (yellow) line. From the station, we walked through a bustling neighborhood, a town square, and rows of shady trees. We climbed a series of brick steps before finally encountering a large, open green space.

The park’s design is based upon the seven elements of Muisca cosmogony—the clock, the stars, Sué (“The Sun”), Bochica (“The Savior”), Chiminigagua (“The Force of Creation”), Bachué (“The Mother of Mankind”), and the people. From its vantage point, its visitors can see the Nevado del Tolima, the Nevado del Cisne, the Nevado del Ruiz, and the Nevado de Santa Isabel, all of which are located in the Central Cordillera of the Colombian Andes.

After about an hour of exploration, Seth and I descended back into the town for some lunch at a local corrientazo (a far from glamorous cafeteria of sorts). We enjoyed bowls of fish soup; plates of fried róbalo (snook), arroz de coco (coconut rice), maduras (ripe plantains), and salad; and cups of lime and honey juice. The food was quite tasty and gave us just enough energy to journey to our next destination.

Seth and I reboarded the Transmilenio and rode it to Avenida Cali on the D (purple) line. We exited the station to find ourselves in an entirely different part of Suba, a much less affluent and a much less tidy part. We walked through the somewhat sketchy París Gaitán neighborhood two kilometers north to the Juan Amarillo Wetlands. The park was not the natural oasis I expected it to be; rather, it was a polluted and unkempt bike path. On one side were the smooth waters and lush trees, but on the other were the manual laborers’ tired workhorses and shanty homes. Just as we were leaving, a couple of locals warned us about the many thieves and lack of security in the area. We quickly hopped on a bus and traveled home.